Back on a prior post, I had mentioned a desire for different fenders.  I selected the Lund Fender Flares. With a full width front, it is hard to find options.  So Lund makes one that will line up with a horizontal line in the front above the bumper.  Cool.  Different than all the rest and they looked like they would do the job nicely.  Here is when I was somewhat exited about it all:

Back ordered of course.  Now, 33″ on a 1.5″ level may rub.  Raise the jeep?  Nope, raise the fenders!  Should give me 1″ more clearance.  Now it is time for the UPS man to show up!

 

Stuff and more stuff, err money

 

So with full blown excitement I ordered some up from 4WheelParts.  Why them?  Well, they support some groups I am find of.  Now, they did not say back-ordered.  Nope, they took my money and ran.  Not the end of the world, but a headache.  Vendors, if you don’t have the part, don’t sucker your customers.  Just say “we ain’t got it.”  Back ordered weeks via 4WD / 4WheelParts.  Morris 4×4 shipped em right out via drop ship.  Lesson learned.  Very bad taste in my mouth for 4WheelParts.   Whatever.

I was bummed.  But finally the FedEx guy came.  Being that doing this is funner than work, I took some time to install the first fender.  Again, the idea is gain an inch of clearance.

First impressions?  Seems Lund Fender Flare guys needs to work on their packaging.  In their defense it worked.

Lund Fender Flares
The box of goodies. Already taking a beating and I have not opened it up yet

 

Lund Fender Flares
Hmmm, a little stuffing would help protect them?

 

I read the reviews, the directions, all of that.  Rumor is six hours if you have no skills.  I fit that  category.  Figured I would knock one out in 1.5 and call it a day.  Nope.  The stock ones rely on “Christmas tree inserts.”  Set them aside the ones you don’t break.  $0.03 of plastic.  Really guys at Lund Fender Flares, toss a few spares in the box?  So, in a nut shell, here is the drill.  Disassemble, trim, install lugs / riv nuts, cuss,  cuss some more.  Line it all up.  Squint the eyes.  Cuss some more.  Off with the old:

 

Lund Fender Flares
Off with the old. Shana reading directions. I have cussed up a storm.

 

Managed to get one on.  Two and a half hours.  This does not bode well for the rest.  The goal was 1″ more clearance.  There is a bit more coverage (width) as well.  Lund Fender Flares seem to have met the goal.

Stock:

 

Lund Fender Flares.
Stock before Lund Fender Flares

 

After market Lund Fender Flares:

Lund Fender Flares.
Lund Fender Flares installed on right rear. One down, three to go. I need a drink.

 

 

The end result:

 

Lund Fender Flares.
The end result and one Lund Fender Flare installed

One down, three to go.  They should go faster now right?  Or I am I just that special?  Later that week managed to find an hour and got the one front done.   Now to find time to do the other side.

This is stock front:

Lund Fender Flares
Front stock

 

 

This is the new one:

 

Lund Fender Flares
New Lund Fender Flares on the front

 

The kicker was the full width bumper and the horizontal line.  Here is how it all lined up:

 

Stock:

 

Lund Fender Flares.
Stock bumper before Lund Fender Flares.

 

New:

 

Lun Fender Flares
New Lund Fender Flares

 

It is a little wider so that works well with the new tires.  The only non perfect fit is the minor area between the bumper and the fender on the old overlap.  Next time I go to fab guy, I will have them make a winglet.   Should be fine for now. It is what it is.

 

Lun Fender Flares
See the small space between fender and bumper?

 

 

So, in this post have I mentioned this?  I hate the riv nuts? The POS ones supplied with the Lund Fender Flares

Here is the deal.  They suck.  To install them you need an impact wrench.  Get them too loose, they don’t work, get them two tight, they snap.  So, like any good gear head I belong to various forums.  One of my favs is from the Sand Buggy days.  DTSFab.  You can read all about my love affair with Riv Nuts here.

They are all very helpful guys.  How does part of the conversation go?

 

So anybody have an alternative or secret tips for Riv Nuts?

Re Tard Ed.

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Material thickness is key. If your doing body sheetmetal (.040) The nuts you have are probably for thicker metal……..  Installing them is easy, screw on mandrel and squeeze.  If you can get to the backside of the panel, sometimes you can use a small washer to make up for lack of panel thickness.

******

I always used a bolt (allen head grade nine) and a steel spacer with a air impact gun to finish out smashing them down.   Don’t let the steel spacer turn any buy welding a short handle on it.   The tools used to install them never had enough leverage to finish closing them down.  Also use some antiseize on the bolt so it don’t weld to the rivnut.  Hole size is crucial you want the serrations to grab the metal.

******

Here is a good install tool  but,for most people,a bit pricey. Cheaper versions are pretty much junk. Long ass text link.

******

Bite the bullet,buy an installation tool as I showed you. Problem solved. You can afford the tool. Make your life a lot easier.I’ve had my install tool ,just like the one I showed you for over 35 years. Installed 100’s of the rivnuts,learned the aluminum rivnuts are not worth using. If you are using 1/4″ or larger rivnuts then this type tool is best.

******

It all depends on whether you wish to keep the hair on your head or pull it out fighting the things………. Right tool=happy worker=best results.   Honestly,I HATE fighting stuff and getting inferior results so, I always buy the best tools I can afford for the job at hand.

******

Here’s and unusual riv-nut tool.  I like this concept because it not wanting to turn the nut and galled the threads. http://www.rivetnuttool.com/

 

Ultimately,  I conquered the RivNuts!

 

So, the first side took four hours total.  The other side?  About two.  Experience goes along way in this game. My taker on the Lund Fender Flare product?  It could be better.  First, the Rivnut tool they give you sucks balls.  If you have access to a better tool, get it.  In the event you want to proceed before you get going, run to the Ace Hardware.  Get some of this in assorted sizes.  Be certain to get a grade 8 bolt or two for the rivnut tool.  The piece of shit China crap they send with it?  Yes, it does snap right in two.  Get some of this and some of that.  All 1/4×20 so it comes in handy even if you don’t need it.

Lund Fender Flares
This and that may come in handy. Them little square ones with the flange? Very handy

 

Lund Fender Flares
Riv nut POS

On the rinnut deal, once you get a sense for the feel of it, it is pretty simple.  Do not be tempted to over tighten it.  You can feel as it tightens.  Just as it tightens, about 1/8 turn beyond that and you are good.  I used an impact wrench.  Which brings me to the next gripe on the Lund Product.  All told it is about $600 +-  At that price point they should sport an extra Rivnut or two.  Cause you gonna end up breaking a bolt in one.  Drilling one out, etc etc.  I went through three.  Fastanl does not stock them.  Maybe Grainger?  IDK.  My solution?  The little square spring loaded nut.  Standard 1/4 x 20 size.  Drill the hole a bit bigger, snap into place and it blows a Rivnut out of the water.  Get some.

 

Lund Fender Flares
Ace Hardware saves the day

 

On this application, 2015 JKU, they use a hole that is big.  They provide a molly bolt thing.  Yep, broke one of them too.  Get the round insert and a longer bolt at the ACE.  Most folks seem to freak on cutting the liner.  Easy peasy.  Make certain you have one of these:

 

Lund Fender Flares
Snips, that will help.

 

The cut is not as precise as you might think.   All in all I am well pleased with the product.  Just wish they would pack a few more bits of hardware for the oh shit moments.  You will have oh shit moments.

 

All four sides now done. 

 

Lund Fender Flares.
Lund Fender Flares installed.

 

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